APEXi AFC NEO settings

APEXi AFC NEO settings
Hi all,
has any one used AFC NEO,
I am looking for some one to share tunned settings of AFC NEO.
I have tried many by hit and trial but felt hardly any difference.
thanks


Bismillah-E-Rahman-E-Raheem.
Sir
first of all could I ask what exactly is your car/engine/setup?
secondly I haven't exactly worked upon a AFC Neo but did some tunning on a (V-AFC II). and im sure the interface has not changed that much from a V-AFC II to a AFC Neo.

so first of all the AFC works by modifying the signal from the MAP (manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor) that goes to the ECU and this is helpful because the AFC can lie to the ECU and thus the ECU can make the changes by adding or subtracting the amount of fuel that is preset in the factory fuel map. which as a result makes the air/fuel mixture lean(less fuel+more air) or rich (less air+more fuel) comparatively to a stoichiometric air/fuel(A/F) mixture of 14.7-1 i.e 14 parts of air to 1 part of fuel anything lower than 14.7 is considered rich and anything over 14.7 is lean.

so the now that the basics are out of the way, we can get to the real stuff. now since we have made these changes and noticing these changes aren't as easy as one might think. what good way is there to tell that you are making power , it is simple TAKE IT TO A DYNO!. these things are not easily tuned by your average tuner. thats why I emphasize people to invest in proper engine management because then you know the sort of effort that has to go to tune it properly and then people go on and blame AFC Neo's for not making power.

it is just very simple, you make some fine adjustments and as a result you must have some sort of feed back or result to show that you are doing something right or just messing about and losing power rather than making any at all.
what gives that feedback , A Dyno, A wideband O2 kit, AFR (air fuel ratio gauge) , EGT sensor or gauge (exhaust gas temperature)

random maps and settings are worthless because every engine is unique and the various external and internal variables are different for every engine. (fuel,ambient temperature, air pressure etc makes difference) you can't ask a person in California to give you tips on how to tune in Lahore.

but with the V-AFC the stock O2 sensor worked for us by using a multimeter and tapping into the stock O2 and if our settings made it rich or lean we would pick up and note the voltage change which was very accurate.
for example 0V-0.88V (LEAN) 0.92V (14.7-1 just about righton CALTEX Techron Petrol.) 0.96V and up (Rich)

moving on.....
Installation is simple, and only requires tapping into 5 wires and cutting one to intercept the air flow signal. This is all done at the ECU. There are 8 RPM adjusting points to adjust the air flow + /- 50%. These points are user defined within a 1,000 RPM band so that you can get finer control in certain areas if you need it. The rpm points come pre set at every thousand rpm from 1,000 to 8,000

next you want to set up or calibrate the TPS (throttle position sensor for tuning) i.r LO Throttle= 20% of the accelerator is pressed

and HI Throttle= 80% of the accelerator is pressed. this is set up in the menu "TH-Point"
There are two maps on the AFC. One is called the LO map and the other the HI map. Which map it uses is determined by the throttle position. When the AFC is initially set up, the throttle position for the LO and HI map is configured. The default is something like 30/60. This means the LO map values will be used exclusively from 0-30% throttle, then it will interpolate values between the LO and HI maps from 31-59%, then use the HI map exclusively from 60-100% throttle position.

LO-Throttle tuning


This is probably the hardest tuning to do, because the 02 Sensor Voltage is cycling while you are trying to set your settings.

First start off by going to the Settings Menu and by choosing Lo-Thrtl. There you will see a graph. The left & right arrows, let you select the RPM setting at which you want to tune at, and the up & down arrows let you change the percentage, in 1% increments.

Start off at 1000rpm. This is the most important setting for people with raised fuel pressures, or bigger injectors, because it basically helps you set your idle. What you want to do is make your car idle smoothly. 99.9% of the time most cars idle RICH (i.e. too much fuel). First you take note of the cycling voltage. You will notice that the voltage keeps flashing a maximum value. This is the value that you should keep paying attention to. If the value is ABOVE 0.92V, you have to start leaning down the fuel. On the AFC press the down arrow and do it slowly so that you do it in 1% increments. You want to keep on leaning the fuel until the maximum voltage that shows up is around 0.88V-0.92V. Once you have that set up, let it idle for 30 seconds and make sure that it is still cycling with a correct max value. Sometimes the ECU tries to compensate for the SAFC changes. If the value has changed a little, then just simply lean it down or richen it up as necessary.

Now you can keep doing this tuning routine for other RPMs by slowly stepping on the gas pedal to rev and hold the engine at 2000rpm. This is actually quite hard and requires some practice. After you tune 2000rpm, tune 3000rpm. At this point you have a pretty good idea of the graph you are setting up, and in my experience, for every next rpm increment just go down 1% from the previous rpm setting.

Example: 1000rpm -16%, 2000rpm -15%, 3000rpm -14% etc...

HOWEVER, when you reach 6000 & 7000 rpm drop 2% from the previous values

Example: 4000rpm -13%, 4500rpm -12%, 5000rpm -11%, 6000rpm -9%, 7000rpm -7%

This is a good technique to use as a starting point for tuning.


HI-Throttle tuning

First, start off by filling in the values for 1000rpm and 2000rpm. These should be set at the same values you used for Lo-Thrtl. When you are flooring the gas pedal, these rpms fly by so fast that it really doesn�t matter. As a baseline for the 3000rpm setting, use the value for Lo-Thrtl at about 3% richer.

Example:
LO-THRTL: 1000rpm -16%, 2000rpm -15%, 3000rpm -14%
HI-THRTL: 1000rpm -16%, 2000rpm -15%, 3000rpm -11%

For the 4000 - 7000rpm start off with the AFC at values at 0%.

Well, you know the routine by now: floor the car in 3rd or 4th gear, watch the 02 sensor voltages and make tuning adjustments. Remember don�t make huge drastic changes in once step. Do it reasonably and gradually.

Some things to note:
The settings at 6000 & 7000rpm are usually pretty similar to each other. At these rpm settings, I would usually recommend running slightly rich like at about 0.94V. This is to be on the safe side in order to try and prevent knock which usually can occur at these high rpms.

I hope I answered your problem and if any confusion might arise feel free to bother me.


Thank you.